Balmain, for boys

That's right, Christophe Decarnin is set to debut his first full menswear collection this January in Paris at Men's Fashion Week.

Just as I was figuring out how to squeeze my ass into those form-fitting minis...

Britney

Yes.

Lady Dior, Chapter One: Paris

Marion Cotillard for Peter Lindbergh, 2008, reminds me of
Lisa Fonssagrives for Erwin Blumenfeld, 1939

Here's to Hope

to be both the inspired and inspiring

One of the only perks of indentured fashion slavery is breathing the same air as the stylists and editors who translate runway to still-life, rendering the artistic vision of another in their own light and medium.

I find myself conflicted when it comes to American publications. The industry practically wipes its ass on the boring pages of US Vogue but delicately places the latest issue of Italian Vogue in a diamond-encrusted glass box. I think things can be different.

You see, these days I am uncharacteristically enamoured by stylists. Initially I found the profession laughable, righteously claiming that style doesn't transfer between authority and apprentice. While that belief still rings true, I now more thoroughly understand the role and impact of stylists in a publication.

Today at the accessories mound, I gazed at the Giles Deacon helmet I just checked in then turned to another interned and whispered, "Melanie always gets the coolest shit."

Halfway through my internship, I decided to learn some shit. And I have found that Melanie Ward is not only tremendously inspiring -- she is fucking cool and incredible at what she does. My adoration for her is practically a crush. I feel that every shoot she styles was made to send a jolt of temporal euphoria down my spine.

For me, she is one of the few stylists that gives the truly fashion-hungry a reason to even glance at US publications. Everyone is so busy playing it safe: Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and the occasional Lanvin piece statically plastered on a cliche-couture-postured Raquel Zimmerman. THAT'S NOT EDITORIAL. Melanie calls in Balmain! Louboutin for Rodarte! Givenchy!

Whatever she needs to get that shot. She excites me and that's what this path is all about. Other stylists and editors: please take note.

The Top Ten, according to me

Alexander McQueen

Balmain

Ann Demeulemeester

Dries van Noten

Gareth Pugh

Givenchy

Haider Ackermann

Rodarte

Versace

Yves Saint Laurent

Beautiful Erykah Badu for Tom Ford Fragrance

I think it's an upgrade from Tom's past campaings, which always force the idea of 'sexy' instead of just letting it be. The new scent is called 'White Patchouli.'

Quoted...Kate Moss

On the English: "They like to drink."

On Americans: "They're a bit square."

On the French: "They're rude."

On Russians: "They're sexy."

On Italians: "They're bisexual."


Interview, September 2008

Put the tissues away

Though IMG already confirmed that Gemma Ward will be m.i.a. through September, the model clarified by saying, "While I am taking some time off currently to rest and enjoy the company of friends and family, I am still very much a (excited and enthusiastic) working model and actress. I'm only 20, for God's sakes."

Speaking of Slimane, and emaciated

Model Ash Stymest photographed by Hedi for the inaugural issue of Vogue Hommes Japan, which hits newsstands September 10th.

Levi's 501 ad campaign

Starring 22-year-old Josh Beech, model and lead singer of the British alternative band, Snish. As far as ‘edgy’ (tatted and emaciated Slimane muse) male models go, Josh is probably my favorite.

The Incomparable Ms. Ward

Initially, I was disheartened by reports of Gemma Ward quitting modeling to pursue acting full-time. After all, no matter how many doll-faced girls came along—Vlada, Lily, Stam—Gemma was always the first. Hell, as sad as this sounds, we kind of grew up together. But maybe it’s her time.


She’s only done a select few shows over the past few seasons as runways have been flooded with more ‘It’ girls than necessary, so it’s fitting that Gemma, who is known for her maturity and poise, bow out now and peaceably pursue her true passion. So if the rumors are true, the Paper Maché wishes her all the best.

Would you pay $7,500 for this?

The Jeff Koons 'puppy vase,' being re-released by the Gagosian in a limited edition 3000 piece collection.

According to Koons, "The vase is a symbol of love, warmth, and happiness."

I'll pass.

yeah, they usually get to keep the shoes

fetish.

Marilyn's Smart Move

Every season modeling agencies conceive a show package, which is a collection of model shots—a directory, if you will—used by fashion show casting directors to select the right girls for their designer clients (this is where ethnic and ‘fuller’ girls are usually left in the dust). Model packages have been leaking out one-by-one over the past week and the clear winner this season is Marilyn, which represents established ladies like Irina and Iekeliene, as well as rising stars like Arlenis Sosa and Malin Ones. The photos were taken with a lovely, painterly approach—soft colors, dreamy poses—perfect for the spring.


The Three Graces, from Primavera
Sandro Botticelli, 1492

Great Danes

As the major fashion capitals prepare to host their lavish events, several understated cities are bringing theirs to a close--including Copenhagen. I would love to attend a show by one of Denmark’s bourgeoning young talents; the Industry is really missing out.

Bitte Kai
Django Steenbakker
Barbara í Gongini for Basalt
NoN by Kim [Bakker]

The Real Show in Beijing

The Chinese Olympic Committee presented “Olympic Beijing, Fashion China,” a fashion show exhibiting sumptuous creations inspired by art and armor from the Chǔ (an ancient kingdom) during the Warring States Period (475 BCE to 221 BCE.)
I don’t recall such a spectacle during the ’96 Olympics, Atlanta. All we got was a park.

Cover Talk

Dual covers for the NYmag fall fashion issue 2008.

First there’s Chrisie Brinkley, RMS Queen Regent of the Hamptons. After the tumultuous divorce from her fourth husband, Peter Cook, she’s good for a little attention. I think I’m a tad too young to appreciate Ms. Brinkley as a model, but she is a very pretty woman and still has that insouciant, all-American thing down.
And then there’s Rafael Nadal, whom I only knew by name before but now by ripped and well-oiled body.

'Get Help Soon' card

In honour of my temporarily computerless co-writer, the September cover of Details:

Alienesque

Anyone cool enough to remember Mars Attacks!, that campy sci-fi film with the uncommonly accomplished cast--Jack Nicolson, Annette Bening, Glenn Close, etc--in which Sarah Jessica Parker gets her head put on the body of a Chihuahua? (It was like a joke the audience wasn’t let in on.) Anyway, Lily resembles the Martian that disguises itself as a woman.

Lily and Michael Phelps...together?

According to ChinaDaily.com, the swimmer and model (who are both represented by IMG) met on the set of a photo shoot and are now a pair.

I don’t know how I feel about that, yet.

Maybe I should mention Michael’s history-making feats in Beijing in the mean time, but that hardly seems important, considering.

I Love New York

Spotted: a poster of Naomi from Yves Saint Laurent's f/w 0809 ad campaign pasted ideally against a white, geometric wall in the subway.

Photo courtesy The Imagist.

Quoted...Juergen Teller

“I’m interested in the person I photograph…The world is so beautiful as it is, there’s so much going on which is sort of interesting. It’s just so crazy, so why do I have to put some retouching on it? It’s just pointless to me.”

I have a hate-to-love relationship with Juergen Teller. His work first caught my eye when I was fifteen and in Europe for the first time. I saw this picture plastered everywhere
I didn’t find out until much later that it was taken by Teller, but now I’ll always associate the photographer with my adoration of European culture and open-minded idealism, particularly regarding sexuality and the naked body.

Although his brand of photography has gone on to inspire contemptible club kid ‘snapshots’ and American Apparel ads, his images are always compelling, albeit in that purposefully ironic, perfectly imperfect way. Teller seems more concerned with the feeling of a picture than the look of it, and in my beauty-obsessed mind I too often disparage—unconsciously—the value of an emotional response over a limpid aesthetic reaction.

Dick Page and husband James Gibb, photographed by Teller for Marc Jacobs.

Solange Wilvert atop the Opéra Garnier, photographed by Teller for Yves Saint Laurent.

How old is she again?

1993 gave us the Great Blizzard, the great Bill Clinton and the great, Hocus Pocus. It also gave us Taylor Momsen. For some reason the idea of anyone born in the 90s being beyond preschool still creeps me out, especially when one of them looks like this.

Jourdan: the next Tyra?

Only Ms. Banks would show up somewhere looking supremely confident in an outfit like this.

I'm all for extreme fashion, but this is tragic.

I was rooting for you, Dunn

we were all rooting for you!

Costa the Sculptor